In The Hoop memory picture frame

Photo Frame Directions

Items Needed:

2 pieces of Vinyl approx. 6X8″ ( you can use Olyfun or Felt instead of Vinyl for the back)

Tear Away stabilizer

Embroidery Thread

Tape

Exacto Knife

Magnets with Hot Glue Gun or Magnetic Tape

Hoop stabilizer in 5×7″ hoop. Float vinyl in the hoop.

Run all the steps to stitch the design except for the last step.

Use an exacto knife or scissors to cut out the inside of the frame.

Remove hoop but do not remove project from the hoop. Tape second piece of vinyl, olyfun, or felt under the hoop and stitch out the final step to sew the backing.

Remove from the hoop and trim. Optional apply magnets.

This project works well with any of our small designs to customize the frame.

In the hoop snap tray

This in the hoop project features snap tray with optional peeker tab.

Materials List:

4″, 5″, 6″, or 7″ Snap Tray
  • Felt or vinyl Front of Tray … 6″ to 9″ depending on size
  • Felt or vinyl Back of Tray … 6″ to 9″ depending on size
  • 9 Snap Caps
  • 4 Snap Female Pieces
  • 5 Snap Male Pieces
  • Tear away or cut away stabilizer to fit in hoop
  • Awl (hole punch for snaps)
  • Snap Pliers
  • Scissors

4″, 5″, 6″, or 7″ PEEKER

  • Bottom Square (match to tray)
  • Back of Peeker (match to tray)
  • Snap Cap 1
  • Snap Female 1
  • Scissors
  • Tear away stabilizer to fit hoop

As an alternative you can also sew the corners closed instead of using snap tabs.

Peeking Snap Tray Instructions:

  1. Run placement line for the snap tray. Stitch step #1
  2. Lay vinyl GOOD SIDE UP to cover entire placement line and secure in place on top of hoop
  3. Run stitch detail around center of the tray. Stitch step #2 Use whatever color thread you like. I used green to match my peeker.
  4. Turn hoop over so that the back of the design/hoop is facing you.
  5. Lay vinyl GOOD SIDE UP onto back of hoop to cover entire tray size. I used the same black that I used on the back of the peeker so they match.
  6. Secure in place on back of hoop.
  7. Run snap placement circles. Stitch step #3. you will run 2 in each corner …
  8. And one in the top center. These can be any color thread.
  9. Run final tack down stitch around the tray. Stitch step #4 You can use whatever color thread you like for this. For this one I matched the thread to the vinyl.
  10. Remove tray from hoop and tear away stabilizer and tape. Cut off any long thread ends where the snap circles are. This will prevent them from sticking out around the snaps.
  11. Cut away excess vinyl from tray leaving about 1/4″ seam, being careful not to cut the stitches.
  12. To add the snaps to the tray you will need 9 snap caps, 4 female snap pieces, and 5 male snap pieces.
  13. Use your snap pliers and add the SNAP CAPS to the BACK/BOTTOM of the tray corners.
  14. With one MALE and one FEMALE to the FRONT/TOP of the tray. Do this for all 4 corners.
  15. Next add the CAP SNAP piece to the BACK/BOTTOM of the snap tray in the center … as shown here.
  16. With the MALE SNAP piece on the FRONT/TOP of the tray.
  17. Now snap the corners together and flatten the bottom of the tray down.
  18. Then simply snap the peeker onto the tray with the middle snap.
  19. This is a back view. Now fill with Candy.!

This project goes good with any of our small designs and patterns.

Here is a link to our FREE in the hoop snap tab tray.

In the hoop Embroidery door knob hanger

I’ve long set my eyes on creating a freestanding double-sided appliqué where you don’t have to sew anything and a ready item comes right off your machine. What’s more, this item is embroidered on both sides.

This is the doorknob hanger I got as the result (the inscriptions say, accordingly, “Occupied” and “Vacant” — translator’s note):

Side 1: 

hanger-01.jpg

Side 2: 

hanger-02.jpg

For avoidance of doubt, the two sides view of the embroidered design: 

hanger-03.jpg

Let me tell you about the making process. 

I started, of course, with choosing a design. I added some letters and drew my doorknob hanger: Here is what I got: 

hanger-04.jpg

I created 2 embroidery sequences: First was the design itself. 

hanger-05.jpg

And second was the edge finishing (same as in the traditional appliqué): 

hanger-06.jpg

Now let’s embroider. 

I hoop the basic fabric for my hanger with the stabilizer. I commonly use a cheap Chinese cut-away middleweight one — it works well. 

hanger-07.jpg

Embroider the main part of the design: 

hanger-08.jpg

Unhoop the whole thing (carefully!) and trim very close to the stitch that shows us the edges. 

hanger-09.jpg

Proceed to the second part of the embroidery. Hoop only the cut-away stabilizer. 

hanger-10.jpg

Put the pieces of fabric with their wrong sides facing each other and fix them with a temporary spray adhesive or an ordinary paper glue (we won’t embroider them anymore, only finish their edges, so you can use the glue if you like). 

hanger-11.jpg

After that, I changed my standard bobbin thread for the upper thread specially winded on a bobbin. After all, my item has two faces, so it won’t look good if one side of a thick satin column is embroidered with an ordinary white thread: 

hanger-12.jpg

I load the second part of my design to the machine and embroider the outline: 

hanger-13.jpg

Sprinkle the hooped stabilizer with the temporary spray adhesive and stick my semi-finished product onto it by either side so that it fit the hoop: 

hanger-14.jpg

Now I do an E-stitch that stitches my item to the stabilizer perimeter-wise: 

hanger-15.jpg

At this stage, you still have a possibility of adjusting the hoop if the stitch shifts. Because if it does, it is highly probable that the finishing border won’t cover enough fabric, which will result in it falling off the item. For this reason, you need to carefully check everything and, in necessary, adjust the hoop. 

I embroidered the finishing border: 

hanger-16.jpg

Having embroidered the finishing border, I checked whether the fabric didn’t fray and found that it did in a couple of places, in spite of all the hoop shifting. I’ve arrived at the conclusion that I was too skimp – the border would do better if it was a couple of mm wider (mine was only 4 mm).

Then indeed nothing will fray and the border won’t detach from the fabric. Also, the black outline that I stitched for the purpose of trimming, is exposed. It had better be covered. 

So I created an additional embroidery sequence with a wider border and embroidered it right on top of the already existing ones. Just how much wider it was, you can see in the photo below: 

hanger-17.jpg
hanger-18.jpg

This is my hanger still in the hoop, front side: 

hanger-19.jpg

This is the wrong side: 

hanger-20.jpg

After that, I unhooped the item, thoroughly tore off the stabilizer, cut the ends of the tie-offs, and singed the leftover fibers sticking out of the satin edges with a lighter. And get this hanger as a result: 

hanger-21.jpg
hanger-22.jpg

Here is the link to our FREE over the door knob in the hoop hanger pattern.

This pattern works well when paired with any of our designs small sized designs.