In-the-hoop wearable masks use fabric to fill open areas and add a back to their designs. The result is a fun and friendly mask that is fabulous for dress up, birthday parties, Halloween, and more. Follow these tips and tricks to learn how to embroider an in the hoop party mask.
Project Needs & Notes
– Felt, flannel, or ultra suede – Small piece of stiff felt – Medium-weight (2.5 ounce) cutaway stabilizer – Tear-away stabilizer – Temporary spray adhesive (like Gunold KK100) – 1/2″ – 5/8″ wide ribbon – Large eye tapestry needle – Small sharp scissors or craft knife and cutting pad
Sizing Notes: The masks are available in three different sizes: large, medium, and small. Use the chart below for choosing the appropriate size. Measure between the pupils of the eyes (this will ensure that the eye holes will sit properly when the mask is worn): Large: 3 3/16″ Medium: 2 3/4″ Small: 2 3/8″
Cut ribbon ties according to mask size (see below): Large: two 29″ lengths Medium: two 24 1/2″ lengths Small: two 20″ lengths
Hoop a piece of tear-away stabilizer. Load the full embroidery file and attach the hoop to the machine. Embroider the design. The first thing to stitch is a dieline.
Place the fabric piece right inside the shape.
Attach the hoop back onto the machine and continue with the design. A tackdown stitch, also called a zigzag stitch, will sew next. This will bind the fabric to the stabilizer.
Other elements of the design will sew. Watch for a note on the color change sheet that says “back piece tackdown”. When you reach this step, remove the hoop from the machine and turn it over to the backside.
Attach the hoop back onto the machine and continue sewing. Another tackdown will stitch. This binds the back piece (and any other additional pieces) to the front piece.
For the remaining steps, since both sides of the mask will be visible, I wound a bobbin (or bobbins if there are more than one color remaining) with the same color I am using in the needle.
Satin stitch borders will sew next to finish off the mask.
After the design has finished, tear away the stabilizer from inside the eye holes and around the outer edges of the mask.
Using a small sharp scissors or craft knife, lay the mask on top of a cutting pad and poke holes in the center of the ribbon holes on each side of the mask.
Thread one end of the ribbon through a large eye tapestry needle and work the ribbon through one of the ribbon holes. Tie that end of the ribbon in place with a knot and trim the ribbon.
Cut the ribbon to the desired length (see above) and repeat for the opposite side of the mask to finish.
Stitching tips for in-the-hoop masks:
Felt, flannel, and ultra suede all work well with in-the-hoop masks. These fabrics are sturdy, so they hold up well when stitching and through wear. They are also soft which makes the mask comfortable to wear.
To clean the masks, use a soft cloth soaked in cold water — gently brush the mask to remove spots or dirt. You can also use a small bit of mild detergent if needed. Machine or hand washing is not recommended
I’ve long set my eyes on creating a freestanding double-sided appliqué where you don’t have to sew anything and a ready item comes right off your machine. What’s more, this item is embroidered on both sides.
This is the doorknob hanger I got as the result (the inscriptions say, accordingly, “Occupied” and “Vacant” — translator’s note):
For avoidance of doubt, the two sides view of the embroidered design:
Let me tell you about the making process.
I started, of course, with choosing a design. I added some letters and drew my doorknob hanger: Here is what I got:
I created 2 embroidery sequences: First was the design itself.
And second was the edge finishing (same as in the traditional appliqué):
Now let’s embroider.
I hoop the basic fabric for my hanger with the stabilizer. I commonly use a cheap Chinese cut-away middleweight one — it works well.
Embroider the main part of the design:
Unhoop the whole thing (carefully!) and trim very close to the stitch that shows us the edges.
Proceed to the second part of the embroidery. Hoop only the cut-away stabilizer.
Put the pieces of fabric with their wrong sides facing each other and fix them with a temporary spray adhesive or an ordinary paper glue (we won’t embroider them anymore, only finish their edges, so you can use the glue if you like).
After that, I changed my standard bobbin thread for the upper thread specially winded on a bobbin. After all, my item has two faces, so it won’t look good if one side of a thick satin column is embroidered with an ordinary white thread:
I load the second part of my design to the machine and embroider the outline:
Sprinkle the hooped stabilizer with the temporary spray adhesive and stick my semi-finished product onto it by either side so that it fit the hoop:
Now I do an E-stitch that stitches my item to the stabilizer perimeter-wise:
At this stage, you still have a possibility of adjusting the hoop if the stitch shifts. Because if it does, it is highly probable that the finishing border won’t cover enough fabric, which will result in it falling off the item. For this reason, you need to carefully check everything and, in necessary, adjust the hoop.
I embroidered the finishing border:
Having embroidered the finishing border, I checked whether the fabric didn’t fray and found that it did in a couple of places, in spite of all the hoop shifting. I’ve arrived at the conclusion that I was too skimp – the border would do better if it was a couple of mm wider (mine was only 4 mm).
Then indeed nothing will fray and the border won’t detach from the fabric. Also, the black outline that I stitched for the purpose of trimming, is exposed. It had better be covered.
So I created an additional embroidery sequence with a wider border and embroidered it right on top of the already existing ones. Just how much wider it was, you can see in the photo below:
This is my hanger still in the hoop, front side:
This is the wrong side:
After that, I unhooped the item, thoroughly tore off the stabilizer, cut the ends of the tie-offs, and singed the leftover fibers sticking out of the satin edges with a lighter. And get this hanger as a result:
Here is the link to our FREE over the door knob in the hoop hanger pattern.
This pattern works well when paired with any of our designs small sized designs.
Help a child learn to organize and store his game cartridges in a convenient hanging custom game organizer.
Our sample custom game organizer fits over a hanger and contains 12 separate pockets: eight small pockets for hand-held or other game cartridges and four large pockets for DVD games. Customize the pocket size and number to meet individual needs. While the sample holder has boy-inspired motifs, it can easily be adapted for a girl by choosing feminine motifs. Supplies • 1 yard of 60″-wide denim • 1⁄ 2 yard of 45″-wide plaid fabric for binding • Mesh stabilizer • Embroidery, bobbin and sewing thread • Rotary cutter, mat and clear ruler • One sturdy hanger measuring 14 1⁄ 2″ across at base • Air-soluble marker or tailor’s chalk • Designs of your choice no larger than 2″ x 3 3⁄ 4″ Cutting Note: For accuracy, cut pieces with a rotary cutter and clear ruler. • Cut two 16″ x 30 1⁄ 2″ rectangles from denim. • Cut eight 4″ x 5″ rectangles from denim. • Cut four 5 1⁄ 4″ x 9″ rectangles from denim. • Shape the top of the organizer to fit your hanger by following the diagram in figure (A). • Cut approximately 7 yards of 1 1⁄ 4″-wide bias strips from the plaid fabric for the binding. Embroidery • Mark the center point on each 4″ x 5″ and 5 1⁄ 4″ x 9″ denim rectangles. • Hoop the mesh stabilizer, place it in a box for protection and spray the stabilizer with temporary adhesive. Note: If a dense design with a high stitch count is used, two layers of mesh stabilizer may be necessary; test-stitch designs first on scrap fabric for best results. • Secure a denim rectangle onto the stabilizer; aligning the mark with the hoop center. Embroider the design of your choice.
• Remove the hoop from the machine, remove the fabric from the hoop and cut away the stabilizer. Press each design on the fabric wrong side with steam and a press cloth. • Repeat for each 4″ x 5″ and 5 1⁄ 4″ x 9″ denim rectangle. • Embroider a name at the hanger upper edge to personalize the organizer using the lettering or software desired. Construction • With the embroidered motif facing up, shape each 4″ x 5″ and 5 1⁄ 4″ x 9″ denim rectangle by marking and tapering each piece as shown (B). • Finish the side edges with a serger or a zigzag stitch. • Arrange the shaped motifs as desired, creating two rows of small rectangles and two rows of larger rectangles. • Sew the rectangles together. Press seams open. •t With right sides and raw edges together, stitch the binding onto the denim with a 1⁄ 2″ seam allowance. Turn to the wrong side, tuck the raw edge under to the stitching line, pin, press and edgestitch in place (C). • Follow the diagram and mark guidelines for pocket placement (D).
working with multiple motifs
• When embroidering multiple motifs for a grouping, select thread colors that will harmonize as a complete unit. • Choose a similar motif size and theme when stitching multiple motifs. • Make minor adjustments to a motif’s size, if needed, to help it better harmonize with other motifs. • When sizing a motif up at the machine, the stitch count may or may not change depending on your machine brand causing the stitches to be further apart. In this case, use 30-weight embroidery thread to prevent the base fabric from showing through.
• Position the prepared rows along the marked lines matching the quarter lines for placement. Sew along the horizontal lines. • Stitch-in-the-ditch on the seamlines to create individual pockets. • Bind the hanger opening upper and lower edges (refer to D). • Repeat to bind the backing fabric upper and lower edges. • With the panels wrong sides together, sew 1⁄ 8″ from the cut edge down each side as shown (E). Leave the upper and lower bound edges open for the hanger. • Bind the sides, turning the binding raw ends toward the organizer inside. Stitch to secure. • Insert the hanger inside the organizer.
Enjoy this custom video game organizer from us. If you have any questions or comments please email us using the form HERE.
Here are the steps you can take to make your own custom embroidered can koozie. Neoprene is a stretchy and synthetic rubber material. It’s waterproof and great for insulating items — it keeps the hot hot, and the cool cool. And, that layer of rubbery insulation also adds a bit of protection when used in laptop and iPad covers and cases, as well wetsuits for water skiing, snorkeling, and scuba diving. Neoprene is also the material that is used to make those ever-popular can and bottle “koozies.” These neoprene wraps keep your drink nice and cool, and also keep the condensation away Neoprene is stretchy, synthetic rubber, used in a from your hand and table. variety of items, from wet suits to can cozies!
It’s not easy to find neoprene on the bolt at a fabric store, so I took my search to the Internet. I ordered 3mm neoprene from Seattle Fabrics. It arrived quickly and as promised. With the rising popularity of making can koozies, it wouldn’t surprise me if neoprene was found in bricks and mortar fabric stores very soon. Neoprene is rubbery, slippery, and it is not easy to hoop. I found that the top hoop popped off due to the thickness of the material. I elected not to hoop the neoprene, but instead “floated” it on top of the stabilizer.
Because I’m “floating” the neoprene on top of the stabilizer and not hooping it, I am using cutaway stabilizer — and I strongly recommend that you do the same. The purpose of an embroidery hoop is to keep the fabric and stabilizer together during embroidery. This ensures that the stitches land in the right place, and guard against any shifting of the fabric (which results in gapping in the design’s stitches). If I don’t hoop the neoprene, then I’m risking that the fabric will shift. That risk of shifting and gapping greatly increases when using tear-away stabilizer, so I’m going to guard against that increased risk by using cutaway stabilizer. Will you get good results with tear-away stabilizer? Probably. But for the best and most professional-looking results, I recommend cutaway. In the photo above you can see that I’ve drawn horizontal and vertical axis lines on the stabilizer, and aligned those with the marks on the hoop. These lines will help me to align the neoprene on the stabilizer.
I made a can koozie out of the neoprene. In the photo to the left you can see that I drew out the rectangle from the pattern, and also the horizontal and vertical axis lines. Then, I sprayed the stabilizer with a quick shot of temporary adhesive (I like Gunold KK100). I placed the neoprene on the stabilizer, aligning the center point on the neoprene with the center point on the stabilizer. The lines on the stabilizer and the neoprene should (and did) line up with the marks on the hoop. Neoprene is thick, so it can’t be hooped very easily. We used an adhesive spray to keep the stabilizer and neoprene together while embroidering.
I attached the hoop to the machine, and moved the hoop so that the needle was right over the center point. Then, I embroidered the design. I used a sharp needle, because it has a very fine point. Embroidery needles have rounded tips. Because neoprene is so thick, the needle needs to cut through quickly and precisely so that the neoprene doesn’t flag (move up and down). The design that I’m using is a letter from the Grand Flourish alphabet. It has a delightful combination of running stitches and satin stitches. Neoprene, being sturdy, supports both of these types of stitches very well. Many different types of stitches hold up well on neoprene, from thin and wispy to hearty satin stitches.
It turned out great! After I stitched the design, I twisted and yanked and pulled on the neoprene to see if I could get it to rip or tear from where the needle perforations were. Nope. This is tough stuff! I whipped up project instructions for you to make a can koozie like the one to the left. You can find that by clicking here. However, it’s as easy (and maybe even less expensive) to order premade and unconstructed koozies, and This can koozie features a letter stitch on those. from the Grand Flourish alphabet.
I ordered a variety of blank and unconstructed neoprene items from TheSewphisticatedStitcher.com. At that site you can find blank luggage tags, bottle koozies, and can koozies (shown left). As you can see, the items come in a variety of colors. A variety of Neoprene “blanks” are available from www.TheSewphisticatedStitcher.com.
The koozies arrive flat, ready for stitching. The service and quality from The Sewphisticated Stitcher has always been excellent. On the left is a bottle koozie, and I added the Bass Crest (small size) design. On the right is a can koozie with the Penguin at the Beach (small size) design. The Sewphisticated Stitcher has a variety of colors available for the neoprene products. And, there are videos on YouTube that demonstrate how to assemble the koozies.
Stitching tips for Neoprene: Needle 75/11 sharp needle Stabilizer Cutaway (2.5 ounce) Design Choice Any designs work well on Neoprene
Be sure and check out our other custom embroidery ideas HERE.
Like many who are familiar with Guardians of the Galaxy, I immediately fell in love with Groot. And then Marvel one-upped the cuteness with Baby Groot and it was on. When Brother came out with their Marvel iBroidery designs and actually had Groot options to embroider onto something, I think, like, I literally squealed out loud. And after I embroidered this design onto some fresh linen, the size was perfect for a project that I wanted to both figure out and conquer: the Billfold embroidery Wallet. In the event y’all wanted to make your own Baby Groot Billfold embroidery wallet (which I’m thinking ya’ll will), this post will document this project journey in tutorial-fashion.
Two 9” x 4” rectangles (one with I am Groot design centered on the right half of the rectangle)
One 8.75” x 7.5” rectangle
One 12.5” x 4” rectangle
One 8.75” x 1.5” & four 4” x 1.5” strips
One 8.75” x 7.5” rectangle
One 28” x 1.5” strip
Double Sided Foam Fusible Stabilizer
One 9” x 4” rectangle
One 4” x 3” rectangle
Woven Fusible Interfacing
One 4” x 3.75” rectangle
Note: Before you embroider the I am
Groot design onto the main fabric, make sure that there is enough excess
to the left of the design to cut out the 9” x 4” rectangle. This
tutorial also uses the design shrunk down to the smallest possible size
on my machine, Felicia. For best results, use software to recalculate
MAIN BODY: Using a steam iron, fuse the two 9” x 4” linen rectangles onto the fusible foam stabilizer. With a ruler, mark the center of the fused rectangle with an erasable pen on the long sides, in the seam allowance.
With the center marks as your guide, sew a line down the center of the billfold.
Totaling 9 lines, sew four lines 2 mm apart to the left and right of this center stitch line. Set this main body aside.
CREDIT CARD SECTION: Fold both the linen and denim 8.75” x 7.5” rectangles in half to make two 8.75” x 3.75” folded rectangles. Set aside. Also fold the 12.5” x 4” rectangle accordion-style with the first two folds being 1.5” apart, then alternating 2” & 1.5” until you have the three pockets for credit cards. For a visual, the pattern for folding begins on the right side of the image below.
Since this credit card section is going to create a secret pocket
behind it, you need to secure it by ironing the 4” x 3.75” fusible
interfacing to the back of what you just folded. Once secure, take one
of the 4” x 1.5” strips and fold it in half length-wise to make a skinny
4” x 0.75” folded strip. Since the credit cards will go on the left
side of the billfold, line the raw edges of this strip to the back
inside edge of the folded section and stitch with slightly less than a
¼” seam allowance. Bring the folded edge of this binding strip to the
front of the folds and top stitch in place, making sure that the binding
extends beyond the original stitch-line. Set this credit card section
Note: This Double-fold Binding Technique will be utilized for all binding in this billfold. Instead of repeating the previous instructions, it will say “Use the Double-Fold Binding Technique” where appropriate.
IDENTIFICATION SECTION: Take the other three 4” x 1.5” strips and fold them in half length-wise with a steam iron. Now take the 4” x 3” clear vinyl and stick one of the 4” sides inside of the fold of one of these strips until the vinyl is all the way flush within the crease. Stitch the vinyl in place ¼” from the fold. Do the same with the other 4” edge and a different strip. Fold the linen raw edges the linen over the stitch line, finger press and edge stitch. Do this for both strips. You can leave these sections with raw edges right now as they will be bound later.
With the final 4” strip, use the Double-Fold Binding Technique on the left side of the vinyl piece.
ASSEMBLY: Align both the credit card and identification sections on the left and right edges (respectively) of the 8.75” x 3.75” folded linen with the fold on top. If there is any excess for either section, trim it at this time to be flush with the bottom and top of the folded denim. Fold the 8.75” x 1.5” strip in half lengthwise and align the raw edges behind the top of the folded denim and clip/pin all sections along the top. Use the Double-Fold Binding Technique on the top to secure all interior pieces together.
With the billfold exterior face down, layer the 8.75” x 3.75” folded denim and assembled interior facing up with raw edges aligned on the bottom.
The denim & interior are intentionally ¼”shorter and thinner than the exterior. DO NOT TRIM. Stretch the top two layers on the bottom, pinning/clipping as you go, until the left and right edges meet. With a stitch length of 5 mm, baste the sides and bottom of the three layers together. Fold and press the 28” x 1.5” denim strip in half length-wise and use the Double-Fold Binding Technique to bind the perimeter of the billfold. For the top edge of the billfold, sew slowly and make certain to only bind the ¼” excess. We don’t want to sew the section that will hold all your cash closed, now do we?
Tip: Before topstitching the exterior binding, I used fabric glue set with an iron to keep the fold-over in place.
Now you’re done so pat yourself on the back because you made yourself a Dancing Baby Groot Billfold Wallet!!! Woohoo!
Use any of our designs to create your own custom billfold embroidery wallet that showcases your own personality. If you have any questions or comments or just want to leave us some feedback you can use the contact form on the following link HERE.
As much as I love the epic long-term project, I also super love something that is quick & easy with a little extra ooh-la-la. From birthdays to holidays to weddings to you name it, there’s just something extra special about giving someone a handmade gift. Perfect for any occasion, this embroidered hip flask cover definitely ticks all the boxes.
What you’ll need:
Fat quarter cut of exterior fabric (I used denim)
10” x 4” piece of fabric for lining
Half yard of medium weight fusible woven interfacing
Based on the size flask that I found, I needed to find a neato iBroidery design that fit under 3.75” inches tall. In the New Designs section, I discovered both the Mandala Embellishment & Heart Lock Designs that were absolutely perfect. Once downloaded and placed on my USB drive, I was ready for Alphonso to get to work. Since I wanted to add some extra bling to the custom embroidered hip flask, I decided to use Brother Metallic Embroidery Thread.
From the exterior fabric, interfacing & stabilizer, cut a rectangle of each being a minimum of 10” wide and the height of the embroidery hoop. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, place the fused fabric and stabilizer in the embroidery hoop, and embroider the design in the center bottom position on the fabric.
The perimeter of the flask I used is 8.5” and the height is 4”. Note: Not all flasks are the same size, so make sure to measure before cutting what you need.
I needed rectangles from the embroidered and lining fabric to measure 4” x 9.5”, but this measurement might be different for you depending on the flask.
Right sides together, sew the top raw edges together using 1/4” seam allowance.
Press the seam toward the exterior fabric.
Bring the sides together right sides together and lining up the seams, sew up the sides using 1/2” seam allowance. Trim to 1/4”.
Fold and press 1/4” on both raw edges of the tube.
Bring the lining to the outside, line up the two folds and baste.
Since the tube is too narrow to fit around the arm, edge stitch around the circle of both the top and bottom with the tube facing up and moving the opposite side of the tube out of the way as you stitch.
Turn the cover right-side-out, press and slide onto the flask. And just like that, a basic flask had been turned into a cherished keepsake that can be made specific for any person or any event.
If you have any questions, comments, or just want to give us some feedback you can use the contact form on the link HERE and let us know.
Looking for a great gift that appeals to anyone including the feller in your life? This custom compact faux leather gadget case is the answer to your dilemma. Add a monogram to our classy Brother shield embroidery design and you’ll have something really special to give. Perfect for tucking inside a laptop bag or backpack, this case is great for storing all kinds of gadget accessories, ear buds, portable media, notepad and pencil, you name it!
Basic sewing notions and sewing thread to match fabric, plus a machine needle appropriate for your fabric selection. (Note: Many faux leathers have a knitted backing, making a size 14 stretch needle most suitable for sewing.)
One piece of hook and loop tape measuring 1-inch wide X 1 ¼-inches long
Temporary adhesive spray made specifically for fabric
Fabric for Gadget case:
Ravel proof, soft faux leather for case: One piece measuring 9-inches wide X 20-inches long for outside of case.
Tightly woven cotton or flannel: One piece measuring 10-inches wide X 21-inches long for lining.
Cut a piece of the fusible stabilizer to measure 9-inches wide X 7-Inches long. Using an iron set for low heat, lightly fuse stabilizer to the wrong side of one short end of the faux leather, having one straight edge of the stabilizer it aligned 4-inches from the edge. This will define the flap area of the case. Next, hoop the piece in the 4-inch hoop so that the design is located in the center of the flap area, with the center point 1 ¾-inches from the short edge.
2. Add a single initial to the center area of the shield design, resizing as necessary and adjusting the letter so it is correctly positioned inside the shield. Embroider your combined design. Note: This example features an Old English font style, stitched in a monochromatic color selection.
3. Gently pull excess stabilizer away from the outer edges and trim slightly so the stabilizer does not extend beyond edges of faux leather.
Set up the machine for straight sewing with thread to match the fabric and a stitch length of 3.5. Attach MuVit™ foot or Non-stick foot.
Fold and press under ½-inch on all raw edges of lining piece. Sew hook side of hook and loop tape to one short end of the lining, attaching it to the right side of the fabric and centering it along the short end.
Lightly spray the wrong side of the embroidered piece. Layer embroidered piece with lining, having wrong sides together and edges even. Stitch close to all edges of layered fabrics using the MuVit™ foot or the Non-stick foot, stitching from the topside.
7. Next, you will need to mark off the piece to form pockets. Begin by placing pins on each side edge, having pins 4-inches from each short end. See arrows in Figure below.
8. Position coordinating piece of loop tape on the end opposite the embroidered flap, centering it 3 ½-inches from the edge. Open piece out flat and securely stitch the loop tape in place.
9. Fold this end up, having the fold form where the pins are located.
Stitch close to each side edge to form one long pocket and remove the two pins. See below.
Now, divide the pocket into thirds and stitch two additional lines,
forming three small pockets spaced approximately 3-inches apart.
Finish forming pockets as follows:
Re-fold the piece with the remaining pins matching. To form the last
pocket, stitch along the edges indicated by red arrows in the photo
below, stopping where the pins meet and then removing them. In this step
you are stitching just up to the pocket formed previously.
Next, fold the case so that both pockets are layered on top of one another and the flap is opened up.
Set machine for a zigzag stitch, width 3.5 – length 1.6. Use the zigzag to sew a ½-inch bar tack, re-enforcing the area where pocket layers meet at the top.
You are finished! Notice how the pockets can be used for various items.
Options and ideas:
• Construct this case using standard fabrics if desired. To modify the project cut both pieces the same size as the lining and sew right sides together leaving a small opening for turning. Turn to the right side, press carefully, and close the opening while top stitching along each edge. Form the pockets and finish as outlined in the instructions. • Add additional hook and loop closures prior to sewing the pockets to add more security to the case. • Adjust the size of the small pockets as desired to accommodate larger or smaller items. You can sew additional lines to make additional narrow pockets.
If you have any questions or comments or just want to reach out to us you can contact us by using the following contact form HERE.